Bali Blessings

Greetings readers!

This blog is a late posting; we have been without the Internet a lot (finally, gratefully without it…), and less focused on blogging as well.

Ubud Ridge Walk

We had an amazing two weeks in Bali the first half of January, our hearts warmed by the effusive smiles and open hearts of the Balinese people, the tropical sun and the incredible natural beauty.

Bali Elephant Cave Temple

Ubud is one of those rare towns, along with Luang Prabang in Laos, which hosts a large tourist and ex-pat community without loosing its native presence and vibe. In Ubud, we stayed in a “homestay” as do most backpacker tourists. These homestays are family compounds with several small buildings where the family and visitors live; all of them also have a sizeable Hindu temple. The women spend hours each morning creating a hundred or more beautiful offerings, artful flower arrangements with morsels of food on woven palm leaf bowls a few inches square. These are then placed everywhere! Such beauty, radiant smiles and open spirits. There is a large, spiritual ex-pat (foreigner) community in Ubud with a number of yoga studios and diverse spiritual offerings. We went to a great kirtan one evening and were delighted to run into our tribemate Ocean whom we know from Good Medicine and Beloved. Deepening our connection with him was an Ubud highlight. We enjoyed long walks up on a spectacular ridge high above and between two streams. On one walk, we ran into our old friend Newman, the masterful mask maker who has a big booth at Oregon Country Fair where we have hung out playing with his incredible creations for over twenty years. We spent a lovely afternoon with Newman and his Balinese wife, learning the methods behind his art. We rode motorbikes through breathtaking rolling green hills, Isaac expertly commanding one with the now much-smaller-than-him Veronica as his passenger. I was so proud!

Tirta Ayu at Tirta Gangga

From Ubud, we went to Tirta Gangga.  Tirta Gangga is the “Water Palace” created by the last Raj (King) of that region. It features acres of watery beauty with about six very large pools filled with grotesques sculpted by the incredible craftspeople of Bali, curving stepping stone paths through the water, artful bridges and spaces to swim in. Picturesque rice paddies surround Tirta Gangga. Looking over the water gardens is the beautiful edifice of Tirta Ayu, where the royal family lived. That’s where we stayed! Thanks to the very kind arrangements made by our dear friend and amazing photographer Kyer Wiltshire (“Tribal Revival” book) we had the royal residence as our home for an affordable price. It was full of amazing sculptures and featured a gorgeous dining pavilion surrounded by a waterway and regal dipping pool. We were served sumptuous private meals by the sweet and capable staff there. After staying in a lot of cheap hostels (many nice, some dingy and a few disgusting) it was awesome to live like royalty for a few days! We have enduring love, respect and gratitude for Emerald, the owner whom we had the pleasure of connecting with there.

Dipping Pool at Tirta Ayu

Breakfast at Tirta Ayu

Dining Pavillion at Tirta Ayu

Villa Pandan at Turtle Bay Hideaway

After lounging at Tirta Ayu, we traveled a short distance to Jasri on the wonderful east coast of Bali for a five-day stay at Turtle Bay Hideaway, Emerald’s sweet coastal home and luxury retreat. There we stayed at Villa Pandan, one of three Sulawesi-made villas rebuilt and remodeled at Turtle Bay Hideaway by Emerald. The villa was expansive with a soaring vaulted ceiling, beautifully appointed bedrooms, personal infinity swimming pool by the ocean, and Emerald’s excellent taste throughout with architectural details and evocative sculptures. We had meals provided for us on the large deck of the house overlooking the ocean. We took long beach walks and met a number of kind local folks including a wonderful Aussie man who provides a home, food and family for twenty youth who would otherwise be struggling. His only requirements are that they go to school and surf every day! We had the pleasure of getting to know Emerald better and remain in his and Kyer’s debt for making our stay there possible (i.e. affordable).

Bali is definitely on our short list of places in the world with a VERY livable combination of compelling culture, people and natural beauty!

Yoga Goddess at the Infinity Pool at Villa Pandan